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I love my curly haired friends!! No two are the same, and playing in their luscious locks is fun and always a bit of a fun challenge.
Curly hair is BEAUTIFUL and FABULOUS and I love it when a curly girl embraces her curls instead of trying to fight them (and not win)
Many people believe curls are super easy, just wash and go! (WRONG)
Curls take love, nurturing, spoiling and PRODUCT!!!! If you come in and sit in my chair and say you want great curls but don't want product, you'll be met with a very blank, unbelieving stare! LOL – I AM serious about great curls!
As a curly hair specialist, my favorite go-to products are:
Although I was trained as DEVA CURL inspired stylist, and love cutting and styling our curly girls, I have mastered my own techniques over time, with trial and error, and it's made me an expert in creating the best look for my curly heads!
There are a few things you should know before coming in for a curly cut.
1. PLEASE LET ME KNOW when you make your appointment that you are a curly girl! I’ll book a little more time for curly girl cuts/styles.
2. If you wear your hair curly most of the time, I’ll cut it to look great curly.
If you wear your hair blown out straight most of the time, we’ll cut it to look great straight.
YOU CAN’T HAVE BOTH – curly hair and straight haircuts do NOT always interchange and look great both ways. However, I can do a hybrid cut that will give you the almost best of both worlds if not the Greatest of one world… get my drift??
3. If you are coming in for a CURLY style cut – please come in with your hair clean, dry and curly the way you like to wear it. I prefer to be cutting it dry so that I can get the shape you want for your curly style. However, if your curls are not fresh and defined, I may cut it wet then refine after I dry it – same process, just in reverse.
After the dry cut, I will shampoo and style you curly with amazing Products (see my list above) and show you how to get the best out of your curls. Because I attack your cut differently than a traditional wet cut, and much of the cut is determined by the curl pattern, if you straighten it later it may look uneven or even a bit choppy. The traditional straight cut feather and blending methods can be a disaster on delicate curls!
4. If you’re coming in for a straight style cut – I’ll shampoo you when you get here, blow it out, straighten and then do a dry cut.
Here are a few tips to keep your curls FABULOUS
in between Salon Visits:
#1 WASH YOUR HAIR LESS
The best way to wash curly hair is with a 100 percent sulfate-free shampoo. Sodium lauryl sulfate, the key ingredient in most traditional shampoos, is both a salt and a detergent—an effective cleanser that's too harsh for most curls. Without enough conditioning agents, it can lift the hair's cuticles, leaving hair dry and frizzy. My recommendation the Surface Curl Shampoo and Conditioner. Both will result in a mound of bouncier, glossier curls. For fine hair, cleanse every other day; those with thick strands can usually go three or more days without a wash.
#2 CONDITION CONDITION & CONDITION
Did I mention condition? The curlier the hair, the longer it takes for natural oils to travel from the scalp to the ends, causing the lower half to appear dry and frazzled. Start adding moisture in the shower then protect and hydrate every inch with a styling product that doubles as a leave-in conditioner. (Brazilian Blowout Smoothing Serum) Just be sure to pick the right formula to deliver moisture without weighing hair down. I recommend sprays for fine hair with soft curls, thicker gels for medium to big curls and denser creams for spiral coils.
Choosing the right products can be a bit of trial and error until you get the combination of products that work best for YOUR curls. Most curly girls end up cock-tailing 2-3 products to get the best results. I also recommend using Moroccan Oil Intense Hydrating Mask every few washes.
#3 STYLE WHILE THE HAIR IS SOPPING WET
Hands off your bath towel for just one more minute—you can stave off frizz and prevent a stiff, sticky feeling by applying products before you've even stepped out of the shower stall. Use your fingers to rake products through from roots to ends, while the hair is SOPPING WET, then scrunch and squeeze upward toward the scalp. I suggest using a soft micro fiber towel or T-Shirt instead of a traditional bath towel. The less friction on the curls the happier they will be!
I start with Brazilian Blowout Smoothing serum. This is a leave in conditioner and that will smooth frizz, de-tangle and protect from heat.
Once the hair is de-tangled, I add in my favorite Mousse by Oribe and rake it through with my fingers. Finally I mist the hair with the Surface Frizz Free Spray Gel and scrunch.
#4 LIMIT ALCOHOL
Styling products high in alcohol give curls a "crunchy, ramen-noodle" texture—they suck up every last bit of moisture. Hair spray tends to contain the most alcohol, while gels and mousses—really anything that provides hold or lift—come in second. I recommend water-soluble gels that don't feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness, control, and a non~brittle boost.
My GO TO Styling Products that have worked for ALL my clients is the Oribe Curl Mousse and the Surface Frizz Free Spray Gel
#5 LEAVE IT ALONE
The more you manhandle curly hair, the more you ruffle the cuticle, creating frizz. The key is to cut down on friction, so stop rubbing damp hair with a terry-cloth towel and instead gently blot it with a microfiber cloth (after you apply your product of choice). Also avoid contact with coarse winter scarves, sweaters, and coats, which can contribute to fuzziness as well, and look for satin-lined hats and hoods.
Combs and brushes are a "NO NO NO!" – (especially on dry hair) your individual hairs group them selves into little families that create the beautiful curls. If you comb or brush through your hair (especially dry) you separate the families and the get so upset and disoriented!!! Detangle wet hair with a wide tooth comb.
#6 USE A HOOD DRYER or DIFFUSER
A regular nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time, while a diffuser dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look. After applying a heat-protecting product, flip your head upside down and "diffuse right at the roots and midlength, making sure to dry the area completely to lock in volume. Do the ends last and leave them only semidry. Because the ends tend to be more damaged, let them air-dry more.
Although very expensive, I can not recommend enough the Dyson dryer and diffuser. I dry a lot of curly hair in my salon, and the Dyson Dryer and Diffuser, by far, does the best job!
#7 THROW OUT YOUR HAIR BRUSH
Bristles fray the hair, disturb curl formation, and create a cloud of frizz. Use your fingers to tousle curls, and refresh wilting ones with a spritz of curl reactivator. Choose a brand you like or make your own by combining one part of your regular conditioner with four parts tap water in a spray bottle.) Mist it all over and then gently scrunch. Unsnag tangles with a wide-tooth pick or comb.
#8 TURN DOWN THE HEAT
Excess heat alters the proteins that give curls their spiral shape. Over time, curls become more limp. Limit blow-drying to just twice a week, and if you use a flatiron, never go higher than 350 degrees. (fun fact / hair begins to melt at 415 degrees!) I tell my clients to always use hot tools that have an adjustable temp setting. Start at the lowest (325-340) then only increase the heat a little at a time if it’s not getting the desired result. You would be surprised how little heat you need to get a great result if you take smaller sections. If you notice your curls have lost their bounce, abstain from heat-styling entirely and use a conditioning mask in the shower. Once hair is exposed to moisture, new hydrogen bonds begin to form and restore the curl pattern
#9 SWITCH TO A SILK PILLOW CASE.
Cotton soaks up moisture from your hair, causing frizz. Cotton fibers also tug on hair as you toss and turn, which can lead to breakage. A silk pillowcase cuts down on friction and keeps things smooth. … and it feels so fancy!
#10 FIND A STYLIST THAT KNOWS CURLS
Curly dry hair and curly wet hair are two absolutely different things. Curls retract significantly when dry; some pieces may coil tightly, while others hang a bit looser.
A thorough consultation about how you wear your hair is MUST. Always show up to the salon with curly dry hair so that your stylist can see your true dry curl pattern.
#11 Try to refrain from bleaching (highlighting) your hair. The chemicals in hi-lighting services break the bonds in the hair that form the curls. If you absolutely can NOT go without your summer hi-lights, make sure to go to a curly hair specialists that know how to protect your curls during the color service. Follow up any color services with a regimen of Olaplex following instructions on the label.
Stay Beautiful! The Stylist formerly known as *Mickey*
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